GorkaMorka Fort – posted in GORKAMORKA: I have just aquired the full rulz set. I have other GW sets so I have all the dice needed. does. World’s First Gorkamorka Battle Report. -We Wuz ‘Ere Furst!: Scenario with Scrap that uses the Fort from the boxed game and the Watchtower. GorkaMorka Fort 1 This fort won the senior (15 yrs+) category at our build a fort competition. It was built by Nikki, James and Minkus. The thing which set this fort .
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By modern standards it was a pretty subdued affair — initially there were only Necron Warriors and Scarabs. As part of that release push there was this showcase article on some rather good Necron-themed terrain, complete with an in-progress Adeptus Paleologos dig site. Originally from Citadel Journal 27 this article was primarily credited to Gary James, the founder of Terragenesis. Of course that particular domain gorkamokra long gone these days.
Fortunately Terragenesis is still around and the two forts featured in the original piece still have articles there with even more photos:. Gorkamorka Fort 1 by Nikki, James, and Minkus. Gorkamorka Fort 2 by Mark and Stunty. Before we go into scenarios for Da Town and the extra rules which exist you first need to understand a little about map layout. We could of course just create whatever shape of buildings we felt like but that could lead to some fairly unbalanced games.
Instead we planned out a layout that would provide a nice mix of cover, bottlenecks, elevation, and general chaos. This serves as the focal point for the map as well as the fprt crossroads for all in-game traffic. The idea here was to ensure that there was at least three routes into or out of the square for vehicles.
In actuality they have arches allowing a forg to drive right through them, also handy as a deployment location for a scenario. Next thing to point out is that in addition to those there are a great many places through which mounted models can find their way i. These are labelled below:.
As you can see, mounted warriors have a bit of an extra advantage here. Instead of the mostly flat plain that Gorkamorka is normally played on one instead has alleys, roof tops, and interconnected roof top escape routes. Some of the larger ones can also gorkajorka traversed by mounts, allowing one to rain fire down from the roof tops. As part of the continuing tradition of Orktober, we present to you a look at what is coming up this week, Da Town, a little slice of Orky life outside the walls of Mektown.
Da Town offers something that Gorkamorka tends to avoid on the basis of its difficult to foft vehicles inside an urban area and the best scrap tends to be found out in the desert.
Delicious fungus beer, squig meat, and slaves all have some value to all the gorkamofka out in dort desert. In terms of mechanics the town opens up foet host of new possibilities gorkamorja how to handle movement and other special actions. Scenarios will also have additional rules added which are optional for those who wish for a more involved experience and like things like NotMobz making their day better or worse.
Flamekebab will be showing you how to construct these buildings for very reasonable prices, though little Grotz might need an adult to help them with the cutting of bitz. Rebel Grotz in particular will gain their first unique scenario from the arrival of Da Town. More on that later. Those intrigued should dust off their weapons and get ready to Goff Rok!
Shadowbadger has been doing some inspiring work over on Heresy Online creating a rather awesome board for Gorkamorka:. We made two, but that was mostly due to limited space and time. I may well make some tort soon. Take a small amount of plain flour other kinds probably work too and drop it into the water. I used ml of flour which was far too much for this project.
Try 25ml or 50ml. The water should be five or six times greater i. The first hill Depiff and I made was going to be quite a tall one, although this gorkamor,a a little unintentional. The central plateau of it is 5. Draw out a basic outline, ideally with a model to hand for scale purposes.
At the same time decide whether this is going to be a bumpy hill, a crag, a cliff, etc. The toilet rolls are going to be your support columns inside the hill. Draw a rough line around where you reckon the hilltop should be and compare it to a vehicle. As I mentioned a moment ago, that line is 5. Next up, flatten the roll and use a knife or some scissors to gorkamroka it into the relevant height.
Slice gorkamorrka into triangles and angled pieces and tape them onto the toilet rolls. The more you use, the more defined your structure will be. Some long pieces work well for establishing a basic structure, then smaller pieces can be used to add more well defined pieces.
To get the process done faster, use a hairdryer to dry glrkamorka piece as we so often do when building things. I would recommend doing this on a surface like a cutting mat — it can be picked up, rotated, and peeled away. We stuck our hill to it and then trimmed the scraggly edges.
We tried to dry ours at a very rapid pace but it still took quite a while. Make sure you cover the entire thing as adding more glue later is irritating, but you knew gprkamorka already. Personally I prefer my hills painted. I undercoat mine with a dark brown, then give them a moderate dusting of a fortt approximating Snakebite Leather, followed by drybrushing with a lighter colour.
Do grkamorka like them? Do you hate them? Could you teach me how to do better? Comment and let us know! As I mentioned in the first half, caps matter when painting. The former is a wide spray that should allow you to quickly cover a vehicle or gorkamorja of terrain in a few passes, the latter provides a thin line of paint that can quickly be passed over things. This is one of the reasons I favour spray paint intended for graffiti — it sticks to just about anything.
Before I continue, I want to mention drying time — graffiti spraypaint is designed for just that — graffiti. What this means is that a quick coat will dry in seconds. This means that when painting, you only need to spray a thin coat, perhaps reposition it a little and then spray again.
Gorkamorka fort | WarbossQ | Flickr
As long as you keep the coats quick and light, the foft will have dried by the time the next coat is applied. Firt is NOT true if you use crappy paint, so be careful. If you got it all first time, well done, if not, take it outside and give it another blast.
One of the bits that has finally reached the top of the heap is part of an Easter egg box. My girlfriend Gorkers, Da Not So N00bz suggested it be used for a crater or foort, an fortt which immediately appealed. I figured the plastic itself would be a nightmare to get spackle to stick to, so the first step was to build up some structure to create a skeleton for the polyfilla to build on.
Hot glue was used for this, in conjunction with a load of old coffee cup heat shields, provided again by my other half. These were ideal for this as they had a natural curve to them, helping them wrap around the curvature of the plastic, uh, thingy. With the card firmly in place, I started adding pre-mixed filler to the structure, which was then left to dry over night.
In the morning a few areas were added to and some PVA glue was added to the empty centre to create an initial layer for adherence. Later some of the chunky forf sand I use was added to this area, creating a texture that would hold filler. Once that was dry, a final, smoother coat of filler was added. Not too smooth, mind you.
GorkaMorka Fort #1
The final stage of construction was to add fine grain sand to the piece, excluding the centre. This took several layers and was held on by PVA glue, a process which was aided significantly by my trusty hairdryer. Once the thin sand was on, I wanted it to blend with the basing of all the rest of my terrain, so I added some of the shell sand to it around the edges and scattered patches across it where it seemed sensible. With that it was outside to paint it black and add the other base colours, dark brown for the centre, a faux Snakebite Leather for the rest.
Lastly it was drybrushed with a lighter brown colour on the outside as per the base painting here and a little Bestial Brown on the inside to dull down the glossiness of the paint. There we go, finished!
I took it upon myself to enter a piece, if anything just to get through some of the junk I had building up around my flat. A while ago there was some renovation work going on nearby and on our way back home Ross found a medium sized PVC tube which he donated to me.
So gathering up a few other bits and pieces I set to work on an entry, to be finished in a couple of days, in between revising gorkamorkq my HRD exam. The general idea was to create a piece that indicated the presence of a large amount of scrap below the ground, or possibly as if a large lump of the space hulk had torn off borkamorka engines in all directions as it broke up. I imagine the pipe as part of a connective structure in a bank of many similar engines that has been decaying slowly and recently was blown over, crushing the nearby shack.
In terms of gameplay I wanted to build something that would be big enough for most normal vehicles to pass under it, rather than being entirely blocked by it. I also wanted to provide a bridge for foot models, allowing combat to occur around it and to create a tempting vantage point.
A combination of PVA glue and hot glue were used to hold the whole thing together — hot glue where a quick bond was required and PVA where it could wait. I added some detailing to the engine itself, although I really wanted to add more. Let the chips fall as they may! It was spraypainted black and the base was given a rough coating of Snakebite leather. Click on them to see larger versions. I took two photos that ended up so close together that they give a faux-3D effect when viewed as an animation.
The image links to a larger version of it. A friend of mine made some large puppets a while ago and used large amounts of foam to make them. Afterwards he had several big blocks left over and offered them to me for a pittance. Get some flat black spraypaint I suppose you could use gloss if it rocks your boat. Flip them over if required and get the gorkamodka properly undercoated.